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    Phi Phi Islands, Travel Tips

    The Viking Cave at Phi Phi: Paintings and Bird Nests

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    BY Paul ChappellNovember 13, 2020
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    The Viking Cave — known in Thai as Tham Phaya Nak — is a large limestone cavern in the eastern cliffs of Ko Phi Phi Leh, famous for two things: the ancient boat paintings that gave it its "Viking" name, and a centuries-old trade in edible birds' nests harvested from its walls. You can't go inside, but it's a striking, atmospheric stop viewed from the water on a Phi Phi island tour.

    Here's the story behind the Viking Cave — where the name comes from, the remarkable birds' nest industry inside it, and how to see it for yourself.

    Why is it called the Viking Cave?

    The limestone cliffs and entrance of the Viking Cave at Phi Phi Leh

    The cave takes its English name from a set of paintings on its eastern and southern walls, near the base of the cliff. They depict different kinds of boats — including one that resembles a Scandinavian Drakkar longship, which is where "Viking" comes from. In reality the paintings are relatively recent and were almost certainly drawn by sailors and traders who sheltered in the cave during monsoon storms, more likely depicting European trading ships from the age of exploration than any actual Viking voyage. The Thai name, Tham Phaya Nak, means "cave of the serpent king."

    The cave of the birds' nests

    The Viking Cave is also one of Thailand's most important sources of edible birds' nests. High on its dark walls and ceilings, cave-dwelling swiftlets — the edible-nest swiftlet among them — build small, cup-shaped nests almost entirely from their own hardened saliva. These nests are the key ingredient in birds' nest soup, one of the most expensive delicacies in the world, prized in Hong Kong and beyond and selling for thousands of dollars per kilogram. To collect them, local harvesters climb fragile-looking bamboo scaffolding and rope rigs high into the cave — a genuinely dangerous traditional trade that has continued here for generations.

    Can you go inside the Viking Cave?

    A Simba Sea Trips speedboat passing the Phi Phi cliffs near the Viking Cave

    No — the cave isn't open to tourists, both for safety and to protect the birds' nest harvest. Instead, boats slow down near the entrance so you can look in, photograph the towering cliff, and pick out the bamboo scaffolding and ropes the harvesters use. During the breeding season you'll often see the tiny, fast swiftlets darting and diving around the cliff face in search of food. Having spent years running boats through these islands, I can tell you the Viking Cave rewards a slow, early pass — in the soft morning light, with the cliffs glowing and few other boats around, it's far more atmospheric than the midday scramble.

    Seeing the Viking Cave on a Phi Phi tour

    The Viking Cave sits on the same Ko Phi Phi Leh coastline as Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon and Loh Samah Bay, so it's a natural part of a Phi Phi day. Our Phi Phi Sunrise tour (from ฿5,310) takes it in alongside those headline stops, reaching this stretch of coast early — before the day-tripper fleet arrives — so you see the cave and its cliffs at their quiet, golden best.

    Paul Chappell

    About Paul Chappell

    Paul Chappell is the owner and operator of Simba Sea Trips, one of Phuket's most established boat tour companies, founded in 2005. With over 23 years as a professional airline pilot and more than 11 years in Phuket's tourism industry, Paul brings a unique blend of aviation-grade safety standards and hands-on marine expertise to every tour. He has been on the water since childhood — from waterskiing and houseboats to operating luxury charter boats across the Andaman Sea. Today, Paul oversees the Simba Group's four brands: Simba Sea Trips, Two Sea Tour, Soho Pool Club, and Simpro Academy.

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